Egypt and Dubai March April 2023
Day 1 Leaving Perth
After four years we have finally got to do another tour and yes, we have gone with the trusty Trafalgar yet again. Pauline and I finished work on the Thursday even though we were not flying out till Sunday night. Sam picked us up in Dylan’s car and we left for the airport at 6pm with cases and hand luggage on the weight limit.
A quick drink with Sam at the airport and a seamless crossover through passport control into the gates area. Tried to buy some Egyptian pounds to no avail, with a quick look round duty free and a snack before walking to our gate. Looking for a seat near the gate we spotted an old colleague Peter Campbell who now lives back in the UK. Had a great chat with Peter who I had been in Houston with and his lovely wife Audrey before getting onto the Emirates A380 bound for Dubai.
We had paid for extra leg room and got seats 67B & 67C mid-way down the plane on the lower deck. Sat just behind the toilets, opposite the flight attendants who sit facing backwards on take-off and landing. Overall, the seats were in a very good position and even provided entertainment.
Now here is the very first of my Phillisms of the holiday. It is not until you sit and watch people that you realise the quantity of total morons there existing are amongst us. I found myself wondering how these characters managed to book a ticket and find their way to the seat on the plane through the airport. On more than one occasion the seat belt sign came on due to turbulence, the announcement that NOBODY should use the toilets or leave their seats was very clear. At this point the lovely Emirates flight attendants would lock the toilet doors. Now if I had been a decent person, I would have informed these morons who now tried to open the locked toilet doors that they were not occupied but actually locked. However, I am not, so I giggled to myself every time as they fidgeted nervously for ages hoping that somebody would quickly come out of the loo, making them even more desperate for a pee.
Anyway, we got to Dubai in 11 hours, two films (Bullet Train and a Bourne for me). Two meals which were fine and a good sleep for Pauline, I got none. At Dubai we went through a long line quickly to the connections lounge, grabbed a rather expensive coffee each, tried again to buy some Egyptian pounds (very poor exchange rate here so don’t bother). Had a look round the duty free and then made our way to the gate for our flight to Cairo. The 2-and-a-half-hour transit went quickly and our next flight was bang on time.
We sat in exactly the same seat numbers, planning on my part. The flight was just under four hours and even more entertaining loo queue watching. A lady sat to my right also noticed many times and could not help laugh herself. She even told somebody at one point. Again, the flight was good and on time.
Arriving at Cairo we noticed the weather was a little dull, cool even. However, it was 10.30am so we were expecting it to warm up. It did not.
We got through passport control with ease passing a few locals/drivers with names on cards waiting behind a barrier. None had our name and we did not see a Trafalgar card. Through to baggage claim and our cases came our right away, then out to the pick-up point. Nobody was waiting for us. Hmmmmm strange. We exited the building to be greeted by a few hungry Taxi drivers who would not leave us alone no matter how many times we said no thanks. We crossed the road to see if our contact was there but nothing. Shit. So, we crossed the road to go back into the terminal and I made a call to Trafalgar. The helpful cockney lad put me on hold while he tried to summon the cavalry. And there out of nowhere like a character from Mr Ben our man rocked up with a Trafalgar card which he must have had behind his back in the terminal. The cockerney got back in touch so I let him know we were saved.
Into a van with a driver to sample the chaos that is Cairo roads for the half hour journey to our hotel. Now here comes Phillism number 2. If everybody in Cairo were to drive in the lanes that God has provided on the roads here then the city would be a nice quiet place. BUT they do not, and it is not. There is not a single second of daylight where you do not hear car horns. Karl Pilkington was absolutely spot on in Idiot abroad. It is incessant noise.
Anyway, we got to the hotel The Ramses Hilton right on the banks of the River Nile and up to our room on the 16th floor. The room was surprisingly up to Pauline’s standard and no complaints. We dumped the bags and went for a nosy around as it was now lunch time. We sat in the bar by the pool. Yes, inside as it was too cold for us now soft former Northerners to sit outside. We had a chicken salad and wrap with a couple of coffees. Not bad. The hotel was on the banks of the Nile but we were facing the building site on the other side.
Back to the room for a lie down as we had now been travelling for a full 24 hours. We got ready for dinner but stayed at the hotel as we could not be bothered venturing too far. On the ground floor there was a few small shops and three, yes three banks where I could finally get some Egyptian pounds in cash. To my surprise the exchange rate was excellent and apparently is a set rate. So, note to anyone who is still awake and may come here. Wait till you get to Cairo to get your cash. FYI the rate was 20 pounds to the $Aus.
The hotel pub/bar called Sherlock Holmes was nice enough but not cheap. We both partook in our first cocktails of the hols. They seemed to be a bit shy with the alcohol and my very quiet unassuming wife told them in no uncertain terms to my shock and horror. Up to bed and start on this blog we went. Car horns still blaring into the night.
Day 2 Cairo
The next morning, we got up and decided we may need some warmer clothes as we had packed none whatsoever. Jeez we are next to a desert in Egypt, who needs a jumper? Well, everyone apparently as all the locals had jumpers, coats, hats, and gloves. I did think the fella with a balaclava was going overboard. Down for brekky we went and had my first taste of beef bacon, I know, WTF is that, well seems like it was very thinly cut roast beef. The young waiter was working very hard for a tip. So now that I had some cash I could oblige.
At this point I must mention my Egyptian friend a colleague Haitham, the Mo Salah impersonator. Haitham sent me a message the night before we left to give us some tips on places to go see and eat. He also mentioned that he had arranged with a friend of his to look after us today and show us around. Now we needed winter woollies and that was a priority and there was no way on this earth I was going to subject this kind man to a morning of Pauline’s shopping trips. So, we got the concierge advice on shopping centres and he got us a hotel car, BTW 3 times more costly than the taxi back.
We went to a massive shopping mall called City Star about 25 mins from our hotel. Very impressive with a wide range of quality clothes shops to my liking as well. Fred Perry, Lacoste and all the Hooray Henry shops you could wish for. Also, a Marks and Sparks which Pauline wanted to see having none in Perth. Also sparse in Peth are the Starbucks. Wherever we go in the world we go in a Starbucks. Not for the food or coffee but just to take a photo to make Nicola jealous. We both bought some clothes for the arctic conditions outside.
We left the building grabbed a cab and noticed the weather had now completely done an arse about and was quite warm. Somebody is taking the piss out of me. The cab driver had very little English but far better than my Egyptian. He got us back to the hotel safely dodging every car that tried to run him off the road. Up to the room, dropped the thermal underwear and ski masks off and down to the pool area for a beer and Pizza sat overlooking the serene (my arse Nile bridge). Now I know this is Egypt and you are maybe not going to be surprised but while we were sat having a Stella and a Coke with a rather poor imitation of a pepperoni Pizza, we saw a man riding a camel. So, what hear you think, it’s Egypt there are supposed to be camels there. Yes, maybe there are, however, this camel was legging it across the bridge with about 300 cars with all their horns beeping. Just seemed a little out of place. Maybe it is just us.
Up to the room for a little housekeeping and ironing. Got our gear ready for the next few days which we expect to be hectic. To go with the still cars beeping we now had to put up with some guy upstairs doing renovations to the hotel with a kango. Fekin marvellous, could not wait to get out of the room. Had some laundry done, quick wash and out for dinner, now we were both knackered and were about to go to one of Haitham’s recommendations when we saw an ad for the rooftop restaurant in the hotel. Let us take a look. We did and what a view of the Nile, the darker the night went on the more colourful the view became with miles and miles of traffic, colours fountain shows on the river and a plethora of hotels lining both sides of the river. The service was good, drinks were fine, my Sea Bass was excellent and Pauline’s Lamb was delicious. Bizarrely we were taking in the lift to and English couple originally from Liverpool but now living in Melbourne. Their brother-in-law was meeting them at the top. This guy had lived in Warrington and Lymm and knew all our old haunts from many a years ago. What a small world this really is….. Goodnight.
Day 3 The Tour starts here.
We had been sent an email to tell us to be in the lobby for the start of the tour. We were ready and got down for brekky at 6am. Scouring the dining area we were able to pick out who we thought would be on our tour.
7.30am came and there was more than one tour group in the lobby. Wael our leader rounded us all up and got us to the bus. Quickly we noticed more than the usual percentage of Yanks and Canadians. We only counted 3 other Aussies, that’s what we class ourselves as now. There was also a very young couple who so far, I believe maybe from South America somewhere. Washington state as it turned out.
So off we trotted into the abyss of horns for our 40-minute ride to the Pyramids of Gisa. Wael went through the housekeeping, a little history and the plan for the day. There was a lot of dust in the air and we were expecting a really poor view of the Pyramids. When we got there we were surprised it was all good.
Now comes Phillism number 3. Apparently, we didn’t leave all the halfwits on the plane. Yes, some had dodged the catchment net and had smuggled themselves onto our tour. Not only I realised that this may be a long 10 days but it became apparent that poor Wael twigged it as well and he was going to have to deal with these moronic questions, people being late and not really listening to what he had instructed.
Through the entrance we went and up to the great Pyramid. Now this was a magnificent site and just what we came to see. Apart from the numerous hawkers, camel drovers, and general pain in the arse would be thieves there was not too many people around as we had got there quite early. Pauline and I walked all the way around the first Pyramid and unusually I took quite a lot of photos….
We joined back up with the group as instructed at the correct location and on time. We got on the coach for a very short trip to the second pyramid where Pauline and I paid to go inside. Now this was to walk bent over down a tunnel, up another and into a room where there once had been a burial chamber. Wael had warned us this may be difficult and claustrophobic. Fortunately, it was neither. We came out of there and were grateful we had not worn our newly purchased thermals.
Onto the next area which we could take panoramic photos of all three pyramids after an eventful loo stop in what can only be described as portaloos from the 30’s. We took some more pickies.
Next we drove to se the sphinx which was also on our bucket list. Not as big as we expected. Surrounded by the usual hawkers and s stones throw from a Pizza Hut/KFC shop. It was a great site though.
From there we drove to the first of a few I expect hard sell places. Now this was a carpet/rug place which had been set up many years ago apparently to teach the local kids some skills. Well, the same bloke that set it up must have also been the same bloke that set the one up that we saw 10 years ago in Turkey. Absolutely the same layout and format. The only difference being we got tea and soft drinks here and Rakki in Turkey. Same hard sell shit which before it started Pauline and I bolted, drinks in hand.
Onto the next wonder, the pyramids of Saqqar (SIC) This was a different set up to the ones we had seen, less busy and a bit out of the way. Still great to see though. Look up the history yourself and there is a good recent doco on TV about recent finds here, however I was losing concentration to facts by now.
From there we drove to Memphis the original capital of Egypt where we saw plenty of great carvings and a massive one of Ramses II who it seams may be as famous as Earling Harland. Half an hour here and back on the bus for an hour and half journey back to the hotel.
On the Bus Wael dropped the bombshell of what time we had to be ready for the next day. We would be flying from Cairo to Luxor and had to have our bags outside our rooms by 3.15am and on the bus for 4am. For Fӣks sake. Now we are early risers but that takes the piss. Anyway he went through the agenda and also explained the tipping advice for the trip which set the wheels of stupid questions in motion from the loo queuers.
At the hotel Pauline and I quicky got our gear ready for the early morning get up and went to the pool bar for a snack and glass of wine.
Back up to the room for a deserved shower and early night……Or so we thought, not only was the roads noisy but at about 11pm the occupants of the room next door had a major domestic. We couldn’t speak their language whatever it was but they were load and really going for it, We left it for a while and was ready to bang on the wall but Pauline wisely persuaded me to call the hotel to report it. 20 mins later it all went quiet.
Day 4 The Leaving of Cairo and off to Luxor.
Alarm clocks had been set for 2.30am so the well-oiled tourists that we really now are we were up and ready in no time. Down to the lobby to meet the dreary eyed travellers and be presented with a breakfast box and the restaurants we all closed.
Onto the bus after positively IDing our baggage and off to Cairo airport, eating our boxed brekky on the way, it was not bad either. The group passed through the airport security and got to the gate with no issues we were aware of. Onto the plane and I sat next to Wael who slept the whole way to Luxor. Quick one hour flight with no issues and a very smooth landing.
At the other end we disembarked and boarded a new coach to head for the temple at Karnac. Now this was impressive and blows other countries history to pieces. Huge status and hieroglyphics covered every square inch. There were small sphinx’s and all sorts of structures that made me wonder about the engineering that went into al this and the lives that must have been lost working here.
We then went to a museum where we saw real dead unwrapped mummies, again all the artifacts were older than most things we had seen before. The museum was a short trip and very interesting.
Back on board the bus and a short trip to the boat. This was our first site of it and it was better than we were expecting so that was a positive. Our room was clean with plenty of space. It also had a bath which I knew would please Pauline. The lounge was nice and the top deck had plenty of sun lounges, a bar and a small pool. We got to rest up for a couple of hours and then headed out for another short trip to Luxor temple. Not as big as Karnac but equally impressive and had been worked on not only by ancient Egyptians but Roman Christians who had left their mark in some areas.
Back to the boat and I must mention at this stage that Wael was telling us there was an option to take a balloon flight the next day. Pauline was keen but I was against it and thought it would be nice to have an extra couple of hours in bed. Having done two balloon flights in Perth and not knowing the safety of these things here was also slightly in the back of my mind. I persuaded Pauline that we didn’t really need to do it.
Back on board we showered and got ready for dinner. We had a cocktail in the lounge and sat with our group for a buffet dinner which we all really enjoyed. Pauline and I grabbed another drink in the lounge after dinner and then off to bed for a good night sleep.
Now as we lay in bed a moment of horror for me personally. I realised it was Pauline’s 60th birthday the next day and I could have and should have treated her to that balloon flight. I knew I was going to suffer from here on in.
Day 5 Pauline’s 60th Birthday with King Tut
A good night sleep was had by all and down for an early breakfast. Again, the buffet was really good and so was the company. Onto the bus to pick up those 8 people who had taken the optional balloon flight. Now this is where my torture started and the ridicule from the other travellers for not taking Pauline on her birthday.
We arrived to see at least a dozen balloons in the air and I have to say it looked magnificent and I do regret talking Pauline out of it. They told us they had all enjoyed it tremendously which compounded my pain. Where they landed was also another area with monuments so we took some photos with the balloons and monuments together.
Next up was the must for any trip to Egypt, a visit to the valley of the kings. Now this place is out in the desert and is just rocks and ruble but this is the place that the ancient kings found to be buried with all their treasure so that nobody would find them and steel it all. How wrong they were eventually. Cut into the rocks were many tombs with short tunnels which back then would have been well hidden. On arrival at the control centre, we had the usual X-ray machine security check which we had gone through at every destination. We then boarded an electric buggy bus to take us a short ride up the valley.
On arrival there are about 11 tombs you can enter and view. However, your ticket only allows you to enter 3 of your choice. On Wael’s advice we went in King Ramses the First, Third and Ninth. We also bought a ticket each to go into the most famous tomb of King Tutankhamun.
The first three were magnificently decorated in the passages which were very similar. The layout at the end of each tomb were all slightly different. There was a sarcophagus in one of them. Large queues which moved quick enough but had got notably larger as we were leaving. Another good thing about Trafalgar is they get you in early to see the sights.
We then went into King Tuts Tomb which was smaller than the rest and had minimal decoration. This was because he had died very young unexpectedly and had not prepared his passage to eternity. Laying there in wait for us was this young man who is possibly the most famous dead body in history. Surprisingly we were allowed to take photos and had plenty of time to look around him.
After that it was back on the large golf buggy bus to the entrance and the usual bazar where you had to run the gauntlet of Hawkers trying to sell you tat.
Next stop was another site just outside the valley of the kings and it was for Queen Hatshepsut. This was a massive site cut into the hills. We could see from the distance a lot of steps to climb so Pauline decided she didn’t need to see it. I went alone with the rest of the group. It wasn’t as impressive as the Valley but was large.
They then took us to another hard sell place where they made alabaster. After the quite humorous guide showed us how they made the ornaments from this bit of rock we were taken to the usual shop. Now this looked great and they had many different Egyptian styled ornaments but when we listened to how much people were paying we decided not to bother.
The only “Be my guest” of the tour was to a village where we met a guy who I think was the head of the village, (Mayor/Chief/Elder) Sorry can’t remember. He walked us through the streets of his village and explained, the structures of both the building and the families. Most houses were large but basic, more than one story, with gardens that usually had animals, cows, donkeys or horses along with crops. He then took us to his (family) home. Now this may have been his family home in the past but it certainly wasn’t now. (According to Wael). Here two young ladies were preparing some bread in a massive wood fired oven outside. We were each given a slice of hot bread with a glass of hibiscus juice. A couple of young kids were also in the house along with a mother and baby, she had probably prepared the drinks. We were encouraged to walk around their abode which we all did. The two story house with a roof top bar (not) was old and obviously not now lived in but just a tourist attraction. At least they did not try to sell us tat.
Back to the boat for 1pm and finally set sail. Pauline and I got the swimming gear on after a nice lunch and we relaxed on the top deck all afternoon with a swim and a nice chat with some Canadians and American couple.
During the journey the boat was approached many times by small boats with two likely lads on. They would attach a rope to our boat which looked a really dangerous manoeuvre and then try to sell their wares to us on deck. We had been warned not to. A crew man would then come out with a large knife and threaten to cut the rope if they did not untie it. Always a short argument and they would relent and drift of at the back end. A couple of times they threw up a package to the passengers who threw them back. One time it ended up in the Nile, they soon untied and chased after to retrieve their product.
Dinner tonight was a candlelit dinner which I told everyone I had laid on for Pauline’s birthday. Nobody believed me of course, least of all Pauline. We had a really good set dinner which we had ordered at the previous lunch. I had Sea Bass Pauline had chicken. After dinner the crew brought out a large birthday cake singing with drums all for Pauline. Now this I had arranged with Wael before the trip so I did earn one or two Brownie points back.
We had another night cap and went up to the top deck to see the view in the dark. Another good night sleep was had.
Day 6 Sailing, Komombo, Crocs and Arabian nights.
Today was a good day of rest for us after the hectic last few days. No early wake up as we were staying on the boat for most of the day. Pauline wanted to stay in bed longer but I was restless and got her up just after 7am which is late for us both. We went down for another good brekky and then set about doing nothing. I wanted to catch up on transferring photos from the phones to the laptop and also get the blog up to date which I had been neglecting due to the schedule we had.
Up in the sun on the top deck the boat started sailing down the Nile again. Countless cruisers are along the river. Today we did not have any Pirates trying to flog their ware. The morning passed quickly having chats with various couples and relaxing. Down for another feed at lunch time and then back to the top deck where we sat right at the front of the boat, windswept in the sun but it was also very pleasant.
We had some laundry done and was hoping it would be ironed. It was not to Pauline’s dismay. It had only cost $20 for a bag load and luckily, we had packed our travel iron so no big deal.
At 3.30pm we all met for tea and biscuits in the lounge while the boat docked amongst about another 20 boats docking at exactly the same time. At 4pm we all offloaded following Wael with our whispers switched on. Another temple at Komombo. Now this temple was a 2-minute walk from the dock so no bus ride. We ran the gauntlet of young persistent hawkers to get to the temple. A walk around for half an hour, now this place was quite new only 300BC. A few pics and a look around the Crocodile Museum full on mummified crocs.
There was one interesting engineering feat here that interested me and it was a very basic level gauge for the Nile River. It looked like a huge 10m wide well-built just off the river which they used to actually measure how high the tide was.
Heading back to the boat we had to go through the now pests trying to sell shit. The little old American lady Fran nearly got sucked in to being robbed for some tat when Pauline and I got her to come with us.
Tonight’s dinner was an Egyptian fancy dress. The fella in the little shop in the basement made a killing selling us all costumes. Pauline got a frock and scarf. I got a Yasser crackerfat scarf. I was not going to wear a frock. Off we trotted for dinner and had a traditional Koshery meal with some extras and the obligatory glass of wine.
After dinner we all met in the lounge for an Egyptian night where the staff sang and performed and got all but me up to dance.
The photographer was very creepy and kept taking Pics of Pauline. He only had to ask me and give me two camels and it would have been a deal.
A few more wines and off to bed.
Day 7 Dam it a Belly Dancer.
A bit of a lie in today as we were heading not far from the docks. We got up and had too much for brekky as is now becoming the norm. Pauline and I headed to the top deck and found a lovely start to the morning in the port of Aswan which reminds us of the many Mediterranean ports we had been to. The place was clean and for a change buildings looking finished. We also bought a few of the official photos but not all that were taken the night before.
Onto the bus for a short trip to another temple. This time the temple at Philae.
To get to the temple we had a short speed boat trip. Not much speed in these boats but not too bad. On board we had a couple of lads selling bangles maps and history books. We got some for about $10.
Now this temple was not in it’s original place. It had been taken down brick by brick and moved about 500m. I think it was due to the water levels and the construction of the Aswan dams. All the same you would never know and it was still quite impressive.
Back on the boat more tat being sold, off the boat to run the gauntlet of more tat sellers before boarding the bus. From here we headed to the old Aswan dam. This was built in 1902 by the brits and is quite small. We drove over without a stop.
Upriver there is the massive and famous High Aswan Dam. Built by the Russians (a bit of politics here) in the 1950s around the time of the Suez Crisis. We had a 10-minute photo shoot at the top of the dam with its huge hydro plant to one side and the vast Lake Nasser on the other side.
From here we went to another selling event, this time a papyrus showroom. Now we had no intention of buying anything but we did get a picture for $45 after we had been given a very brief lesson in how papyrus is made. Outside Pauline and I waited with old Norm for the others. We were pestered to death by a couple of young kids selling book marks.
Everyone else joined us back onth bus and off to the last stop of the morning. The unfinished obelisk. Now this huge needle made from granite is still in the ground because when they were making it by banging rocks together the whole thing cracked. I bet someone got in the shit big style for this four thousand years ago.
The afternoon was spent on the boat after lunch. Pauline took a nap whilst I sat on the top deck chatting with the couples we now seem to chat with regularly. One from South Africa the other from Queensland.
I joined Pauline for a kip before dinner. We seem to be eating a lot now. After dinner we had some entertainment in the lounge. Three lads playing instruments, a really tall lad a spinning derver who was very impressive and then a belly dancer with what can only be described as a very very buxom young lady.
Worse was to come for me as she got me up to dance along with the other two blokes we chat with. Hated it really. One last wine and nighty night….
Day 8 Flight to Abu Simbel.
We had been talked into dropping all the other optional extra trips by Wael and talked into the trip we had not planned. The cost worked out the same though. So dropping the dinner cruise with belly dancer, (saw that free last night on board) the trip to Alexandria and another seems to have been a wise move. Instead we have opted to take a flight to Abu Simbel and it’s very famous temples. Now I didn’t realise which this trip was until it was discussed and then I remembered the documentary we had seen about the place.
We got up early, had a brekky and were given a pack lunch each from the boat. This pack lunch would have lasted Pauline and I a week. So, we decided to only take one between us which in the end was more than enough. Not all our fellow Trafalgar tourists came today only about 17 of us.
We drove a short 20 min trip to the international airport at Aswan. A small but nice and clean airport. We boarded a small plane after a short bus trip. Great flight of about 45 mins in which we saw great views of the Aswan dams and the temples from the air. I also had chance to have a good chat with Bruce an older gentleman from Fort Worth Texas. He was a really interesting guy who had been a pilot for the US Navy in Florida (Not a fighter pilot or top gun) and then a pilot for the domestic American airlines.
On arrival we were shunted onto a bus off the plane for what must have been the shortest bus ride in history. At max it was a 100m. From the airport after another bizarre toilet experience for the ladies apparently, we drove another 20 mins to the temples.
In through the usual X-ray machine check in which nobody ever checks and out for a short walk around to the front of the two temples which face Lake Nasser.
Now there are two magnificent engineering feats which make these temples so special. First, they were bult for Ramses II, thousands of years ago. Cut into the rock the larger temple has four giant statues of Ramses II outside with more inside and a few rooms lined with the usual Hieroglyphics.
The other temple, almost as impressive was similar but less rooms inside and slightly smaller statues on the outside. Both were very impressive and we were so pleased we actually listened to Wael and take this option.
The second engineering feat was that these two temples were not in the original place they were built. In the 1960s when the Aswan Dam had been built, they realised that these two temples would actually end up under water and never be seen again. So, a call for help world wide went out from Egypt to move them to a safer location. Help arrived and what can only be described as a feat of engineering genius the two temples were cut into 1040 Approx blocks and moved piece by piece. These were re-assembled exactly how they had been taken down higher and dryer than before.
The rouble was then placed behind them to give the impression of a mountain side. Brilliant work.
We had plenty of time for photos and then strolled back to where the bus was parked again running the gauntlet of Hawkers. This bazar seemed to never end though. You can only say no a few times before it gets tedious.
Near the car park there was a covered nice café area where we ate our pack lunch and had a chat with Wael about his family. Now here I must say that this is our fourth Trafalgar tour and yet again the tour director has been outstanding. These guys really earn their pay and I never though we would see someone as good as the first one we had had 10 years ago but they have all met that standard.
Back to the airport through the hardest checkpoint we have been through where they checked passport numbers of the women, shoes off and all sorts of barmy checks which were not actually done as nobody again was watching the Xray machine. Another record equalling bus trip to the plane from terminal and a short trip back to Aswan.
On the boat we had a nice dinner after a rest and then out again to the temple we had been to the day before at Philae. This time it was a sound and light show. So we got there in the dark, this time there was no Hawkers baring the odd one or two. We boarded the same boats as yesterday; however, this was in moonlight only. Not a single light to show the way, not even a red or green navigation light on any boat. Now these boys are no slouches when it comes to speed and they got us there quick smart without a collision. Admittedly there was not as many boats on the water as the day before but it is still a HSE nightmare. Would not like to be the one to write an incident report on that one.
At the temple in the dark we were treated to a light show walking through the same route as yesterday. This time though there was a story being told. Booming out of large speakers the voices of the god’s the river Nile and Kings told the story of the temples up to this date. It made the whole history a little bit easier to listen to and retain than just plain facts we are usually told.
Back to the boats for another moonlit joyride and onto the bus. Passing through the now busy bustling streets of Aswan we travelled, 10pm and bustling streets you may ask well I may not have mentioned but the locals are celebrating Ramadan so this is their time to eat, congregate and celebrate. It was excellent to see the place packed out in certain areas.
Straight to the rooms and bed tonight as we were now shattered.
Day 9 Last Boat across the River Nile.
With a really lazy day ahead I got up without waking Pauline and got myself ready. We went down stairs for brekky eventually had another lovely brekky and then went on top deck to have a look round. We were joined by Nat and Marie and decided to leave the boat and go for a walk along the dock side. We were pestered by a few who tried to sell us bot trips. We then found a bazar that was more for locals and not tourists and had a nice walk through there without managing to buy anything.
Today all that was planned was a sail boat ride on the river Nile in a Felucca. A huge sail boat with a small crew. All of us fitted in one boat. There was no motor at all and we sailed up and down the Nile while Wael pointed out some places on the banks.
Highlight of the sail was the two kids who frantically paddled up to the boat on surfboards, grabbed hold of the tyres on the side and started singing various songs. We all gave them some change as tips. They let go and drifted off to find the next boat to entertain.
Onto another selling of Tat. The crew removed a blanket on a table to expose more tat. Wooden camels and letter openers, pencil cases and bracelets. We bought a couple of pencil cases for Ava and Fyn.
After an hour’s pleasant sailing we reboarded the ship which was to set sail at one. We had lunch and all went on to the top deck. The boat did not set sail till after 2pm but it didn’t matter to us we had a lovely relaxing afternoon watching the banks of the river Nile as we sailed north back to Kombombo.
Arriving right on time at Kombombo for a lovely sunset over the palm trees on one side and the hustling hawkers on the other side at the temple.
Dinner time came and we had another birthday on our table. It was the very shy wife of Raphael out Puerto Rican friend who lives near Chicago. Sorry I do not know her name. The crew and waiters did their magic and put on a show again with the usual cake coming out.
Tonight, was another Egyptian night in the lounge. This time hardly any of us dressed up, we didn’t and none of us could be bothered going to the lounge for a drink. Too much fresh air and wines on deck probably today.
Off to the room for an early night once the noise of the entertainment died down.
Day 10 – Pirates on the port bow.
A day of rest for us all and time for the crew who were all brilliant to look after us. Breakfast then up onto the sundeck to sit with Nat & Marie, Roy and Helen and Norm. Basically, we sat there all day chatting and watching the banks of the Nile go by. We had lunch and got to the locks. Now here the pirates surfaced again throwing their crappy table clothes to the top deck and wanting you to buy them. This time they threw more than the last with Helen and my quiet wife Pauline taking great pleasure in throwing them back. Sometimes landing in the Nile with the pirates frantically chasing their soon to vanish wares. They did not lose any by the way. Going through the massive locks was another event with two ships at a time moving precisely into the tight well engineered locks. It didn’t take long for the level change of about 10m to drop and off we went again. In the afternoon we had a slight nap in the room and then went back upstairs when we arrived in Luxor for another amazing sunset. We had a quiet dinner and off to bed for another early night as the next day was going to be a big one.
Day 11 – We are sailing.
All packed up we had an early brekky with cases left outside our rooms. The porter who had done our laundry twice was lurking for another tip. No chance sonny. He got a tara and thanks pal from me this time and that was it. We all picked up out packed lunches and made sure our cases were loaded onto the bus and jumped on with our pack lunches for a two-hour bus ride to the valley of the kings again. This time to visit the temple of Queen Hatshepsut and the Memnon Colossi. Now this was impressive and was the first temple we had been able to go to the top of. The views of the Sahara were outstanding from the vantage point above.
There was also a crypt we could climb down into. Pauline did not fancy crawling on her knees in her white pants but I did. I finally got rid of my $1US to the guys at the entrance but got a happy snap with them as well. Value for your buck. I went into the crypt with a few others and was really pleased I did as the Hieroglyphics in the narrow passage were some of the best I had seen so far.
Out of the crypt and out to meet Pauline. Again, we had to go through the usual Bazar, this time we had some time to spare and grabbed an ice lolly.
From the temple the bus took us to Luxor airport where it seemed every Egyptian there wanted a fekin tip. Through the usual Xray machines with no shoes there was blokes picking your bags off the little belt to had them to you. Cheeky bastards wanted a tip. Fek off. Then we got to the gate, sat down got a coffee with our companions. Went for a pee this bloke turned the tap on for me to wash my hands and this cheeky fekker wanted a tip. Piss off.
Boarded the plane with what sounded like a load of Russians for a one-hour uneventful flight back to Cairo. At Cairo Pauline’s case came off the conveyor first, mine came off last, brilliant. The bus took us back to the Ramses Hilton and after a bit of ginning around we got our cases got to our room for a nice surprise. This room was twice the size of the one we had last week and also had a bath to Pauline’s delight.
We had arranged to catch up at 7.30 with the other two couples and old Norm to go to the rooftop restaurant. This was shut. We went to the pool bar, closed for a private party, Execc bar was shut. Sherlock Holmes pub had people smoking. For fuck sake can we get something to eat here? We ended up in the hotel main restaurant where we had brekky last time for a buffet. It was not flash but filled us after a long day and a few sandwiches from the lunch box.
Back to the room which was surprisingly quiet, no frigging horns beeping tonight and a view of the Nile. Yes, a good night sleep.
Day 12 – That’s all folks for the tour anyway.
So, the last day of the tour has arrived and after a good night sleep I was itching to get up and going. Pauline could have stayed in bed. Brekky in the same spot as last night and I exchanged some cash, we also got three bags full of laundry sent down so we were ready for Dubai with clean clothes. We boarded the bus all dressed respectfully with long pants, no shorts, and modest shirts. This was because today we were to visit two mosques and a catholic church.
The first stop the Citadel of Salah El Din with the Alabaster Mosque of Mohamed Ali (not the Boxer). Prior to entering we had to put covershoes on which was no big deal for most. However, it was for the old American lady Fran who reminded me of Danny Devito playing the Penguin in Batman. And she was as painful, really. Now this was massive and impressive Mosque with its dome but most of all the view we were treated to this day. We got outside to a very rare clear day over Egypt to be able to see the Pyramids in the distance. Plenty of photos were taken from here today.
Next stop after a short bus ride was the Mosque of Sultan Hassan. Here we had to remove the shoes and had been told to wear socks. We walked through the equally impressive mosque and we treated to an individual demonstrating the call to prayer and sang the verse from the Koran written around the walls, pointing to the words he sang as he went.
Unusually we were taken to a catholic church (seen enough of them in Europe to last a life time). This was a little different and had been built on top of an old Roman fort thus named the hanging church. Nothing special here or different other than its architecture.
Last treat on the tour was the famous old and soon to be replaced Egyptian Museum which is situated just across the road from the Ramses Hotel we are staying in.
This place was massive, too big for you to see every item and it was obvious some rooms had never been looked in for years. It holds the jewellery of King Tutankhamun and many other kings loot. Very impressive it was but what was most unusual was the amount of stuff in there. You would not believe that even the most interested of us were just walking past the mummy cases as there was that many of them. We did not even go to look at the mummified animals such as dogs, cats and crocodiles. Statues of gods, kings’ queens and others lined the floors with carvings and hieroglyphics everywhere.
No bazar this time but a proper shop on the exit. We bought a book of the museum as there was no way we could remember all we had seen and been told by Wael.
Outside we stopped in the pleasant café for a coffee and ice cream with Nat and Helen, I pissed off the waiter as he said it was table service but I went to the counter to choose what we wanted and paid them there.
We gathered for the bus for the very last time, Wael gave a little speech and we basically crossed the road to reach the hotel. Getting off the bus we all gave Wael his well-deserved tips and said our goodbyes to everyone. Most were leaving that very night, some later than others. We booked a table in the pool bar for us and the other two couples, went to the rooms.
I came down to the bar to do the blog. In the bar young Christian and Angelica were enjoying a hubbly bubbly shish.
For dinner tonight the seven of us gathered in the pool bar. I had my first steak and Pauline had lamb chops both very nice. We had had some good fun with this inner group from the tour. This was the last time we saw Nat and Maree from Brisbane so we said our goodbyes and promised to keep in touch.
Wael had many sayings whilst we were travelling but here are the three most common. Yalla Yalla, Mashie Mashie, In challah.
Day 13 – A Day to ourselves and Civilisation and a City win.
On Wael’s recommendation we did not take up the optional extra day trip to Alexandria today. More on that later.
A cruisey day was planned. After brekky we grabbed a cab from the hotel to the Civilisation museum which Haitham from work had suggested. A 20 minute drive through some areas with many people sleeping on the streets got us there with minimal traffic.
The museum was relatively new in Egypt terms and well set out. We got there early so there was not many people around. Very impressive it was to. Most impressive of all was the 20 bodies that had been mummified thousands of years ago including Ramses II who is probably the most famous other than King Tutankhamun. Ramses III and all the rest were also there in the darkened vault. I found this amazing to actually see all these kings face to face be it they were lacking some moisturiser.
We had a nice coffee and cake there and called the hotel to send us a driver again. This he did and 20 mins later we were back at the Ramses Hilton again.
Now Pauline had a bit of deli beli so I decided to go down to the bar to sit on the laptop to copy photos and blog etc. On getting there Roy, Helen and old Norm were having a coffee so I joined them.
To my great delight the waiters wrote on the board that the City Liverpool match was to be shown live at 1.30pm. So that was me set for the afternoon. I sat and watched the game with the other three who being South Africans and an old Brisbane lad needed some tuition on the fine arts of football. City went one down to a Mo Sallah goal and the waiters were all chirpy. However City outclassed them and won 4-1 to my delight sat in my favourite City shirt. As the game finished Roy and Helen had to leave for their journey home. We said good byes and I was left to watch the Arsenal Leeds game with Norm. We were joined by one of the Canadian chaps from our tour who wouldn’t shut up while I was watching the game. Never mind.
At this point another Canadian couple came in to the bar. They had been on the optional tour to Alexandria and said it was a total waste of time. Two and a half hours there, two and a half hours back with two hours guided by somebody who was not that good. So that made me feel much better that we didn’t do it. I had been planning on going.
Pauline came down and we grabbed a light dinner each which we both didn’t finish. We then felt the need to sit with old Norm in the lobby while he waited to be picked up for his long trip home to Brisbane. Now he is 90 in a couple of months and has done brilliantly on this trip. A true inspiration. I can only hope both Pauline and I are still doing tours like this when we get to ninety.
We said our good byes to the lovely Norm and went up to the room to pack and get some sleep. There is a massive worksite outside probably a new hotel and they were working 24 hours a day so all through the night we could hear banging of hammers.
Day 14 – Goodbye Cairo Hello Family in Dubai.
Today we leave Cairo for the last time and we both doubt we will ever return. Not that we have not enjoyed it immensely, but we have seen it now. Admittedly they are building a brand new museum that is promised to be brilliant but we have seen what we wanted to see in Egypt.
Packed and fed in the full hotel restaurant we were picked up on time by the Trafalgar rep at 8am. A chatty lad and driver took us in a plush van to terminal 2 at Cairo airport. More X-ray machines but a very quick passage through to the gate to wait for our flight to Dubai on the Emirates A380.
We sat right at the front just behind the pilots and next to the stairs to the upper deck. Plenty of legroom we sat next to a decent bloke from Adelaide. Once in the air these three dubious looking arabs stood for a good half hour chatting and making a noise at the bottom of the stairs where there was plenty of room. The stewards didn’t move them at all. Anyway we got to Dubai and quickly through the huge airport. Outside we couldn’t find Jamie for a while then eventually got him. He had also brought Emelia and cousin Claire. It was so nice to see our Claire looking so well. A few happy tears and into Jamies lovely Pajero. Much nicer than the ones we get in Aus.
He took us to our hotel the intercontinental on the Dubai marina. Pauline and I loved it right away. Brilliant room with a view of the Marina. We had a very quick shower and change while Jamie and the girls waited in the lobby. He then took us to the Madinat Soucks a few KMs away. We sat in the pub Mcgettigans and waited for Justine who arrived lovely as usual. Then Helen and Colin turned up. Some great photos were taken whilst having a few drinks.
We all walked through the souks (Bazar) to a nice restaurant called Americanno. A great meal for us all with some great chatter and piss taking of all of us. Jamie took us back to our hotel and we had a good night sleep in the comfortable bed.
Day 15 – Feeling like Millionaires.
This morning Pauline and I got up and had a walk around the marina, stopping off for a pancake breakfast watching the nannies look after rich kids.
Jamie and Justine along with Claire and Emilia picked us up from the hotel and took us to the port area. Here we met Helen and Colin again and boarded a luxury yacht. Two hours sailing around the marinas and the Dubai palm with Justines brilliant choice of music all chosen for each of us blasting out on the big speakers. The views were just as amazing as the comfort of the boat and us lounging around in various seats on the front deck with the usual hundreds of photos being taken. We really did feel like millionaires thanks to Justine.
After disembarking we went back to the hotel where Pauline and I sat by the pool for an hour with a Pizza and a couple of drinks. Back to the room for a quick nap and get ready to go out with everyone.
Jamie picked us up again and this time we headed for the Atlantis hotel on the Palm to meet up with Helen and Colin. Here we went for a quick walk round before having diner outside at the famous Gordon Ramseys restaurant on bread street. Again we all had great meals, not cheap but good. I dazzled Emelia and Claire with my magic disappearing tissue trick. After dinner we wanted to go in the aquarium which was just closing. The guys on the front were not going to let us in but we gave it the Manchester charm and he let us in as long as we walked through quickly. What a treat it was with some wonderful fish and eels to see.
We said goodnight to the Saxtons and Claire and went with Helen and Colin to their hotel and a walk down the boardwalk on the palm where we had a couple of drinks at a bar. Here they gave you blankets to wrap around you as it got chilly on by the man made beach.
Their hotel was very nice and we would possibly stay on the palm in the future even though our hotel is close to the marina and Jimbaren Beach Resort. We got a cab back to our hotel with bags full of pressies from Helen for Ava and Fyn. God knows how we will fit them in our cases with only 23kg baggage allowance.
Day 16 – Good Bye our Claire and Top of the World.
We got up and booked ourselves on a Desert Drive for the next day. A coffee in the hotel lounge and waited for Jamie to pick us up yet again. This time it was to take our Claire to the airport stopping at the Irish village on the way.
Now this place was really nice and we all had brekky with some photos. Set out like an Irish village with plenty of Astro turf for grass and a lovely pub setting. We ate too much as usual. Here we had to say our goodbyes to Claire which was hard. She has gone through so much lately and really deserves much better out of life. A beautiful lady who I am sure life will take a turn for the better in the near future. So we said goodbye with tears and hugs and off she went with Jamie and Justine to the airports. Pauline and I grabbed a cab to the Dubai Mall where we had booked to go to the top of the Burj Khalifa at 3.30pm. Now we had three hours to walk around the magnificent mall with it’s ice rink and huge aquarium. There were all the flash harry shops and even in the shops for the rif raf there wasn’t a cheap price tag. So we bought nothing and both got very tired. We grabbed a Starbucks coffee and had a rest at the entrance to the Burj Khalifa. We had a quick look outside at the impressive fountains area and then back inside to join the short queue to go to the 125th floor of the tallest building in the world.
The lift took no time at all and the 360degree views of Dubai were well worth the popping of the ears. Photos and pressie shopping before walking the stairs to the floor below which had an outside viewing platform. To our surprise Pauline was not really scared probably as we were that far up everything below was just a picture and too far to see to get a real feel for height.
We were going to meet Helen and Colin here to watch the fountains at night but we were both now shattered so we messaged them and agreed to meet them at Mcgettigans again at Marinat Souks. We grabbed a cab and got there early. Pauline and I walked around the impressive bazaar which was really only selling tat.
Sat outside the pub and getting cold we waited for Helen and Colin. We moved inside and had a nice meal and a really good chat.
Back in a cab to drop them off at their hotel then on to ours where Pauline had a nice bath and I got to sleep.
Day 17 – A Day of rest by the pool and a desert trip.
A much-needed lie in was had this morning as we had been busy for a few days. We got up and went for a nice walk down the JBR. The man-made beaches in front on the massive hotels were empty in parts but full in others, we realized some areas were free and others not. Breakfast was taken in a really good place called Eggspectations.
We walked back to the hotel and had a swim a good rest by the pool with the odd G&T and ice cream with cakes. Met a city fan from Dukinfield by the pool, usually meet a blue on my hols.
Tonight, we had booked on a dune adventure trip to be picked up from the hotel at 4pm. The Arabian Adventures Land Cruiser picked us up with a nice family of four from Vienna Austria. Pauline and I sat in the rear seats for the hours drive out to the desert.
On the way we stopped to see some racing camels training at a race track.
A brief stop to let air out of the tyres and liquid from our bodies. Here we met up with 29 other Land Cruisers who did the same. I noted the row of about 15 air lines ready for our return home. From here on in we were treated to some great four-wheel drive dune bashing. In a row the cars raced through the desert tracks, passing various animals, going over some steep but not high hills and doing some turns which churned up the sand to everyone’s delight. After a good drive we went to do some photo shoots in the desert and also to capture the sunset over the dunes. As it went dark we were taken to a mock village where we did a ride on a camel in a circle, not quite Broome style. Pauline had a Henna tattoo done quickly.
Dinner was served and we sat with the same family on cushions at a table. Then we were treated to our second dancing derver of the holiday Just as good as the first with a larger audience. After a short break the same dancer came out and performed a rather impressive fire dance routine.
Back to the land cruiser and an hour-long drive to the hotel stopping on the way to re inflate the tyres. We arrived back at about 10pm and were quite tired.
Day 18 – Up Up and away in my flying Balloon.
Today we had a lie in again and I tried to convince Pauline to take the Balloon flight at the Palm next to the Atlantis hotel.
A walk to the JBR for breakfast and then back to the hotel, we grabbed a cab and headed to the Atlantis trying to explain to the inexperienced driver where we actually wanted to go. Frustrated to fek with this bloke we eventually got there with Pauline pissed of more at my impatience.
We bought tickets and walked through the Atlantis again to find the Balloon area. Now this was well set up and an excellent ride. The Balloon is fixed to a rope and rises about 300m vertically with a bit of sway from the wind. The views of Dubai, the palm and especially the Atlantis were spectacular.
We really enjoyed it but it was still not good enough for the one I missed in Egypt on Pauline’s birthday.
Back at the hotel we got in touch with Helen and decided to go to the JBR for dinner. They met us at the McGettigans on the JBR, a quick drink and a pleasant walk to a Chinese they had been to before.
All was going well; the food was good but Pauline was struck with a deli belli again and spent a lot of time on the loo. We all walked back to our hotel, Pauline went to bed while Colin Helen and I had a nice scenic drink at the hotel bar watching the boats go by on the marina. They got a cab back to their hotel and I went to bed.
Day 19 – A very Good Friday and a sad Goodbye.
Today was our last day of the holiday. Pauline and I went for brekky at the Marina where we were served by and Ilkay Gundagun lookalike and had to put up with a screaming kid.
Justine and Emelia came to the hotel to take us to the Mall of the Emirates. The journey was funny as Justine is not very confident at driving and had not drove there from the area we were staying at. Getting in wrong lanes even with a sat nav was funny. We got there and booked into the Virtual reality shop we were intending to go to. We had to wait an hour so looked around the expensive shops for a while. Back to the VR and we first did the Men in Black film then a Pearl chasing film something like Indiana Jones.
For this we donned a back pack, helmet, hand and foot devices. We had all chosen our characters and once inside the room all we could see was the characters moving and not ourselves. When you moved your head hands or feet your character moved, you could touch things and even hold things like a lit torch. In the Men in Black film, we rode on hover bikes through space. Now both shows were excellent and we really enjoyed the whole experience. Have a go at it.
Out of the VR place we headed for the Black Tat shop which sold the largest shakes we had ever seen some of them looked very sweet and sickly. Emelia and I plumbed for an Oreo shake which once I got it I knew there was no way I could finish it. Emelia gladly helped me. Pauline went for a snickers and Justine went for an old drive-in movie shake. All too big for us and unfinished when we left. After doing one or two laps of Dubai with some poor instructions from me Justine got us back to the hotel where she used the Valet service to park her car.
We spent a pleasant afternoon by the pool chatting away until it was time to get ready for dinner. Justine and Emelia used our room to freshen up and then we got ready. By the time we got down to the lobby Colin and Helen were waiting for us.
Off to the JBR and went to the cheesecake factory for dinner. Again the servings for all were far to big and none of us dared go for a desert, daft really as we were in a cheesecake factory. The view of the bay was lovely at this time of night and we were all satisfied at the end.
We walked around the JBR area for a while and looked at the fairground style stalls where Emelia won a toy Elephant she named Nellie. The place was buzzing again with tourists and bright lights. Small kids were riding cool lit up electric bikes.
Justine had booked a safedriver back to her home as she had not been confident driving to our hotel. A smart move in the end but we had to get back to the hotel for 8.30. We gathered their gear and the 8 ton of easter eggs Helen had bought them from our room and we all said good bye on the hotel forecourt. Sad to see them all leave and this really was the end of a fantastic holiday, Pauline went back up to our room for the last time.
We got ready, packed the last few things and headed for the reception to find our bill had been paid by somebody. Justine knows I know and she is in trouble, I will reciprocate.
A taxi took us to the airport and we passed through the self-serve check in quite easily. I was still nervous our bags would not get home after putting the labels on myself. We changed our last Dinars and spent the bits of change. Had a drink and croissant in a bar and then went to the gate.
Brilliant when the plane shut the doors on time it was evident that it wasn’t full and plenty of spare seats. I had bought extra leg room for us both but the row of four next to me was free so I bagsed them. I asked a steward if it was alright if I sat there, she said yes so I jumped in before take off. I slept for nearly the whole flight only waking to be fed and look at where we were in the journey.
We landed early got some duty free and got through passport control. I had declared that we may have something not quite right on the landing card as we did not know if Papyrus was acceptable. We opened our bag for the customs officer and told him about the amount of Chocolate Helen had supplied. He was happy to let us go. Stuart was waiting for us as we walked through and it was nice to see him. He drove us home where we unpacked ready for the washing that would take a few days to get done.
So that was the end of another wonderful holiday we both thoroughly enjoyed. We would recommend both Egypt and Dubai although we will probably not need to go back to Egypt I am sure we will go to Dubai many times in the future on our travels as it is the perfect stopover coming to Perth.
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Phill and Pauline Bird 